If you’re an environmentally conscious person and make an effort to consume products that respect the planet and have a lighter carbon footprint, this should extend far beyond just the food you eat. Have you given any thought to the clothes you buy? What you wear? Global fashion/apparel is a huge three trillion dollar industry and is the second largest polluting industry on earth (after oil). The impact on the environment throughout the extensive supply chain are devastating and in my view, not discussed enough .
After 15 years of working in the Fashion Retail industry as a Merchandiser in Canada and the UK, I became increasingly aware and unsettled by the practices of an industry which, like many, prioritizes profit over the planet. The following outlines the main impacts of the production and sale of clothing along with some suggestions on what you can do right now to counter these effects and recent developments which hopefully are a sign of how the industry is changing to address these issues and move forward for a sustainable industry in the future.
Pesticides & Chemicals
The apparel industry uses a variety of pesticides and chemicals at all stages of the production cycle such as dyeing and bleaching but it all starts with the farming of the crops. From field to shop floor, a variety of damage is being done each step of the way.
Key Facts
Cotton makes up 40% of our clothing and whilst it makes up only 1.4% of total crops planted on earth, it uses 10% of agricultural chemicals and 25% of insecticides. It is considered the world’s dirtiest crop and is one of the top four GMO crops produced in the world (83%).
-Eight of the top 10 pesticides most commonly used on U.S. conventionally produced cotton were classified as moderately to highly hazardous by the World Health Organization.
-During manufacturing, it takes from 10% to 100% of the weight of the fabric in chemicals to produce that fabric. The final fabric, if made of 100% natural fibres (such as cotton or linen), contains about 27% , by weight, chemicals. Many of those chemicals are simply not benign.
-More than a half trillion gallons of fresh water are used in the dyeing of textiles each year. The dye wastewater is discharged, often untreated, into nearby rivers, where it reaches the sea, eventually spreading around the globe.
Positive Change
Better Cotton Initiative
The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is a not-for-profit organisation stewarding the global standards for Better Cotton and bringing together cotton’s complex supply chain, from the farmers to the retailers, founded in 2005. BCI cotton farmers produce cotton in a way that is measurably better for the environment and farmers using various criteria such as: what pesticides are to be used and how they are applied, water efficiency, soil protection and biodiversity enhancement.
Detailed criteria and principles can be found here: http://bettercotton.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/production-principles-and-criteria.pdf
Last year, Better Cotton was produced in 21 countries over 5 continents, reached 1.6 million farmers, was grown on 3.4 million hectares, producing 2.6 million metric tonnes of Better Cotton lint. Progress is being made for a more sustainable cotton industry.
A list of brands which are part of the growing members of the BCI (over 1,000) is available here: http://bettercotton.org/find-out-which-bci-retail-and-brand-members-procure-the-most-better-cotton/
Organic Cotton
An organic cotton farming system is one that sustains the health of soils, ecosystems and people. It relies on ecological processes, biodiversity and cycles adapted to local conditions rather than the use of artificial elements such as pesticides and other chemicals that cause adverse effects.
Organic cotton is widely available with 42% of brands now using certified cotton, despite organic cotton farms being relatively small compared to conventional ones and a long conversion process from a standard farm to an organic one (3 years). India alone accounts for 67% of organic cotton being grown as of last year with a total of 19 countries now counted on the list of certified organic famers. great facts here on organic cotton: http://aboutorganiccotton.org/stats/
Landfill
With the advent of “fast fashion”, inexpensive highly trendy clothing released to shops on an ongoing basis, we consume (and get rid of) more fashion then ever, five times as much as 25 years ago.
The landfill build up is becoming unmanageable with knock-on effects on local economies (the cost of processing), wasted environmental resources and even international textile economies.
Key facts: -3/5 of all clothing produced ends up in landfills within one year of being made
-In The United states, 84% of all unwanted clothing was sent to landfill or incinerator in 2012 and last year the country generated 14.3M tons of textile waste.
-Currently only .1% of donated clothing is recycled into new textiles
-Processing waste is costly, on average in the U.S it costs $45 per ton of waste sent to landfill
-Charities can only sell on average 20% of the clothes they receive in donations
-Textile industries in African countries such as Uganda have disappeared due to the huge influx of western second hand clothing (seen as better quality and value)
Positive Change
New technologies in recycling old clothing fibre are advancing and in the past few years we have seen items for sale made of recycled fabric, beyond just “upcycling” which simply re-uses old fabric or upgrades vintage garments. The ideal “closed-loop” production cycle would see old clothes broken down into new thread and woven into new fabric to make new clothes. Although this system is complex more companies are dedicated to this than ever before such as Evernu, who transforms old cotton clothing into new useful raw materials while producing no waste. (www.evernu.com)
More large fashion brands than ever are incorporating innovative recycled fabrics or new low carbon footprint materials into their collections. These large businesses have a lot more work to do but it’s encouraging to see their initiatives as a good start. Some of the best multi national brands in this area are:
-Levi’s (reduced water consumption jeans)
-G-Star (garments made from recycled ocean plastic)
-H&M (in-store recycling programs, recycled cotton garments)
-Adidas (shoes made from recycled ocean plastic)
What You Can Do
Look Out
When buying your clothes you can look out for various certifications such as B Corp and BCI which mean the crops and processes used in making the garment have a reduced environmental impact. Extended list here: http://www.ecolabelindex.com/ecolabels/?st=category,textiles
Do your homework/make yourself heard
Have a favourite brand or store? Have a look at their website and see if sustainability is a priority or what measures they have put in place to reduce their carbon footprint or increase transparency in their supply chain. More and more fashion businesses are changing their ways due to increased customer engagement and awareness, addressing customer concerns is good for the bottom line so they won’t ignore your calls for action!
Top all around sustainable brands:
-Patagonia
-People Tree
-Everlane
-The Reformation
-Eileen Fisher
-Cosac
-Thredup
More brands can be found here: http://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/fair-trade-clothing
and here: http://ecocult.com/2015/the-18-most-affordable-places-to-buy-ethical-fashion/
Great multi-brand retail options for sustainable fashi-Gather & See
-Raven & Lily
-The Acey
-Ethica
Upcycled and Vintage
Call it pre-loved, second hand or vintage, there is an incredibly amazing selection of clothing available which has not required new resources or energy to product. Buying pre-worn clothing is no longer something to hide, in fact, there are often better pieces from eras gone by then now!
You can shop at your local thrift store, which will often support a charity such as Salvation Army but some incredible options exist which sell expensive, high quality brand name items which have been gently used for a fraction of the price. If you’ve never done this before, give it try!!
Great options for pre-worn, upcycled and Vintage shops:
-The RealReal
-Buy My Wardrobe
-Vestiaire Collectif
-Beyond Retro
-Ebay
-Thredup
After you buy
The above addresses the impact of the clothing industry, but you can also be cautious after you buy your next clothing item. Washing your clothes at 40 degrees instead of 60 degrees can halve the post-purchase carbon footprint. Consider mending/fixing items which are worn out rather than replacing with a new item. Better options exist for washing machines in terms of energy efficiency so always make sure to consider this if in the market for a new one.
Sources and recommended reading:
http://www.alternet.org/environment/its-second-dirtiest-thing-world-and-youre-wearing-it
https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2013/01/10/chemicals-used-in-textile-processing/
https://rodaleinstitute.org/chemical-cotton/
http://www.global-standard.org/
http://bettercotton.org/about-better-cotton/better-cotton-standard-system/
http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/craig-and-marc-kielburger/clothing-waste-canada_b_10634478.html
http://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html
APP Advocate Precautionary Principle 
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